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Showing posts from October 20, 2013

Surfer Boy

Growing up along the California coast, surfing was natural to me and have been enjoying the sport for twelve years now. I started when I was 14 and fell in love with riding the waves. I am the normal stereotypical California surfer, blond shaggy hair with a deep brown tan covering the smooth natural muscle tone of my body.  I ride a six foot Firewire Unibrow that has an old style wooden look to it, it is not best board in the world but it is only one of many boards I own. I took the week off from my job where I write software programs eight hours a day to hit the waves instead of leaving the state for vacation. I got up early and headed to the beach with two boards, sometimes I like to trade out board sizes part way through the way. I headed out to catch the first wave of the day after coating my self with sunscreen, paddling out and waiting on a small wave, it was not that great a day for sizable waves.   I rode a few waves in and decided to get into the cooler an...